Supply List

  • stl wild cornish fuchsia lg2 round frames 4, 5 or 6 inches. One of these should be bound with tape.
  • A piece of very close weave fabric; silk, cotton, muslin etc. If you are choosing pale colours for your Fuchsia, then a dark background would be attractive.
  • A piece of material for your second frame. This can be the same or if you are using silk you may prefer to use tight muslin,, as most of it will be wasted.
  • Optional: a small piece each of red and green material to use as a base for the detached leaves and petals. When you have had a lot of practice it is usual to use the base fabric for these but a beginner may wish to use the colour material of the leaf and petal, as a self-colour will be easier to cover.
  • Fine embroidery needles. I like to use applique' or straw needles about size 10 A small tapestry needle to whip the chain stitches or you can use the back of your regular needle. And a large-eyed wool yarn darner to help pass the wires through the fabric.
  • Very fine sharp embroidery scissors
  • Nips or wire cutters
  • Tweezers
  • Magnifier and light if needed, as the work is very fine
  • Green coated thin wire about 32 gauge and uncoated tie wire, 28 gauge or similar.
  • Tracing paper and fine pencil or Washout blue pen (test on fabric to be used before starting)
  • Small piece of red ultra suede or fine felt
  • 2 Stranded cotton (floss)
  • As Shown: DMC Red 321, Greens 3345, 3346, 3347, 3348, Purple 550, Pink 3726 and 338r

 

This is intended to be a piece for moderate embroiderers who have never tried Stumpwork. The piece can be worked with other variations of colours, but the threads indicated are the colours of the wild Cornish Fuchsia of my native Cornwall in England. If you have a favourite fuchsia, choose colours to suit, and single stands of silk floss may also be used.

stl wild cornish fuchsia 1

Order of work

All stitch work apart from the French knots, is done with one strand of floss.

As most of the threads will be in contrast to the background material it is ' very important to hide all ends inside the outline of the shape being worked.

Trace the outline in figure 1 on to the main fabric. You will notice that it does no include the detached leaf and petals or the inner petals and stamens.

stl wild cornish fuchsia 2

Stretch your main background material Into your bound frame.

Work main stem in a whipped chain stitch. The chain stitch and the whipping may be in different shades to add interest. DMC 3346 & 3348

Work the flower stem in the same way. DMC 3348 whipped with 3726

On the main mounted fabric, backstitch around the outline of one of the laid leaves using the darker green; DMC 3345. Work the centre vein using whipped chain stitch. DMC 3345. Using small running stitches fill the surface of the leaf to add depth: DMC 3346 Figure 2

Using a lighter green, DMC 3346, satin stitch each half of the leaf in the direction shown. All the ends of thread can be hidden in the padding stitches. If this is your first attempt, close satin stitch, Insert the needle outside the row of backstitching and when going up to the centre vein, insert your needle, an angle under and into the vein. This will reduce any gaps.

Using the darker thread, put in a few vein stitches in fly stitch on the surface of the satin stitch. DMS 3345.

Repeat this for the second leaf OR after working the centre vein lay rows of stem stitches around the leaf shape starting, the outside and finishing with veins, as in Figure 3.

stl wild cornish fuchsia 3

Flower

Work the two parts of the calyx in satin stitch. The larger of the two should be padded as in figure 4. DMC 321. First catch down a small oval of suede or felt inside the lower calyx. On top of this catch down a larger oval, which still lies inside the traced line. Then satin stitch the two layers down. To finish these elements with a firm edge, work a row of backstitch or stem stitch around the outside edge. DMC 321.

stl wild cornish fuchsia 4

Work the two laid petals as for the leaves, using either satin stitch or stem stitch. Although part of them will be covered by the Inner (purple) petals, it is safer to complete them and cover them later. DMC 321 With a strand of DMC 3685, work 8 stamens in pistol stitch using 8 wraps of thread. They look better if they are slightly splayed and uneven as in the diagram.Work one more straight stitch in the same colour but longer than the other and finish this with a French knot with about 12 wraps in purple. DMC 550

Inner Petals

Using the main picture as a guide, work French knots closely together in purple. These petals need to stand about the surface of the material so they are worked in 6 strands. To get a really raised effect, make a mound of knots rather than a flat layer. DMC 550 When using 6 strands, always separate the strands completely before bringing them together and threading them.

Detached elements: See figure 1 for pattern and figure 5 for diagrams.

Trace one leaf and two petals onto a piece of spare material making sure that there is room between them and that the material will fit into your second frame.

If you are choosing to use coloured materials, tack them firmly on to the body fabric and cut away the body fabric from the rear, making sure you have a good tension on all pieces of material.

Mount the traced material into the spare frame.

Using about 3 inches of green wire, lay it down the centre vein of the traced leaf. Catch in place with a few stab stitches.

Cover the whole of the vein in tight stab stitches covering all the wire. DMC 3345

Outline the outside of the leaf shape with very small buttonhole stitches, pulling the thread away from the centre. DMC 3346. These stitches should be as small and as closely worked as possible.

Work rows of stem stitch close together until all the fabric is covered as in the directions for the laid leaf. DMC 3346 Leave the leaf in the material until everything else has been worked.

Figure 5 Detached Leaf
stl wild cornish fuchsia 5leafstl wild cornish fuchsia 5


Petals


stl wild cornish fuchsia 6Bend a piece of plain wire around the outside of each petal crossing the wires, the base. See figure 6.

Catch it down with a few stitches to hold it in place. Cover the wire with a row of tight button hole stitches until no wire is visible. DMC 321

Catch the two wires together, the base with a few stitches over both wires. Pad the surface of the petals with small running stitches and then cover these with satin stitch, worked closely together. DMC 321

 

Applying the Detached Elements

Very gently, cut around the outside of the shapes. Trim the material right up to the row of buttonhole stitches but without cutting the thread. This can be very unnerving, but if you go, it slowly and carefully, you can achieve a close cut. If you do accidentally cut a thread, DO NOT PANIC. With a very fine stick, put a dab of fray check on the thread and allow to dry before proceeding.

Decide where you want your leaf to lie.

Make a hole gently on the fabric where the base of the leaf will be. Push aside the threads rather than splitting them with a darning needle. The threads will fall back into place, undamaged after you have finished.

Push the needle in, until the eye is halfway through the material. Gently push the wire end of the leaf through the eye of the needle and the hole. Figure 7

Pull the needle through to the back of the material and this will also pull the wire through.

Bond the surplus wire to the back along the line of the stem and catch it firmly to the back of the work with matching thread. Trim off the excess wire with wire cutters.

Repeat this with the two wires of the petals, taking care, as you will probably need to be going through work already stitched.

stl wild cornish fuchsia 7

Arrange the leaf and petals with tweezers, as you feel appropriate.

When mounting the piece of work, put a piece of thin wadding under the work so that unevenness in the back of the work will be absorbed.

Designed and offered to EGA by Moira Knaggs, Cornwall, England
Sun Region Member

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